Sari is the sexiest of all ensembles. It could also end up making you look the drabbiest. It all depends on the way you wear it and the BLOUSE.
A fitting sari blouse is a number one priority when wearing a sari.
I am not a frequent sari person but for the occasional weddings and functions nothing is better than a Sari to make you look fab. A salwar Kameez, however ornate, just does not cut it.
A Saree blouse is a fitting garment which molds our body showing all the curves you have ( or you don’t have) – It has darts near the bust which gives its shape – but you can also make a Saree blouse without this shape. Infact the princess line saree blouse is my favourite. But this one with darts also looks great especially for ladies who are curvy. Checkout the tutorial for the princess cut sari blouse
Or make a simple bodice top like this one if you want a simple dartless blouse for your sari. If you want you can make it a little more fitting by giving two darts near the waistline.
To make the sari blouse in this post we have to take the body measurements first, then make a paper pattern ( best way, but you can also mark directly on to fabric) keep the paper pattern on the fabric, cut the cloth and then stitch it – sounds easy right ?- not as complicated as the sari blouse looks.
Take the following measurements
Checkout this post on How to take your own body measurements to know more on how to measure your body.
A minimum of 3/4 meters ( 75 cms ) is needed for sewing a saree blouse. This is for a bust round of 32 inch . 1 meter is the maximum you need for stitching a saree blouse, for most sizes. This is for a blouse with a sleeve length of 6 -8 inches. If you want a longer sleeve length you will need more cloth
If you are a serious juggler you could sew the blouse with lesser cloth, like scraps from your salwar kameez sewing .In fact I would suggest that you make your first blouse from such scraps you will definitely be having if you are into sewing. Make any necessary changes and then make it in your prized fabric.
For the bodice pieces take 2 pieces of cloth of the following dimensions
Width of the fabric piece – 1/2 of the round measure of the highest bust point. Add 6 inches ( just to be safe)
Length – Length taken earlier plus 1/2 inch (Usually 14 inches is the length of a sari blouse)
You need to cut the following 2 pattern pieces ; refer picture given below for details.
Take the fabric for the back pattern and fold it.
Mark the required length adding 1/2 inch to the length. I am taking 14 inch plus 1/2″
Mark 1/4 of the chest round across the fabric. Draw straight down to D
Mark half of the shoulder measurement minus 1.5 inches on A-C as point M. That will be 5.5 inches for me.
Bring down a line from point M straight down, measuring half of arm round. Here it is 5.5 inches.
Draw a line touching point N across the fabric. This is the chest line.
Mark 7.75 ie 1/4th of the chest along the new line (E-F)
Mark 1/4th of the waist round in line B-D. For me that is 7 inches.
Join points F& D
Mark 2.5 inches from M towards the center. Mark the point as L.
Mark neckdepth as per requirement. Here, it is marked as 8 inch. Make a square here and shape it accordingly into the neckline shape of your choice.
Take the fabric for the bodice and center fold it.
Measure and mark the same dimensions as in the back pattern – neckline is marked differently so do not mark this
Mark the shoulder strap, neck depth, and armhole depth and chest line the same as in the back pattern.
Mark the darts for the front pattern.
Mark the bust point
Draw the bust line across the fabric along the point S-T
Mark the under bust point 2.5 inches here.
Mark 3.25 inches from the center fold towards the bust point along the bust line – S-T
| Bust round | Bust width |
|---|---|
| 30-32″ | 3.25″ |
| 33-35″ | 3.5″ |
| 36-38″ | 3.75″ |
| 39-41″ | 4″ |
| 42-44″ | 4.25″ |
Mark 1″ from the bust point towards S. Mark 1/4″ on either side of the point S. Draw a dart to the point X
Dart towards waist
Mark a point 1″ away down to the apex point Y. Make a straight line to under bust line. Mark 1″ on either sides of the point and bring down straignt to waist line. Mark 1/2inch., 1/4 of either side of X-P1
Dart towards armhole
Mark a point 1/2 inch away from armhole depth. Extend it towards bust point. This point should be 2″ away from apex point ie. the dart should be stitched leaving. 2 inch space from the apex point. Mark 1/4inch on eiter side of Z for the dart
On the neckline mark 1/4 inches to the inside, from C-F – this is for shaping.
WAISTBAND – Yoke or Belt pieces ( patti)
On the underbust line, P-Q, mark 1″ up along the A-C and 1/2 inch up along the B-D.
Cut this piece. You will get a piece bigger than the required size as the dart extension which is 2 inch is also in it. So adjust it to the waistline measurement.
6 pieces of this is required.
Add seam allowance to your pattern pieces
| Part | Seam allowance |
|---|---|
| Neckline | 1/4″ |
| Center front | 1/4″ |
| Shoulder | 1/2″ |
| Armhole | 1/2″ |
| Side seams | 1 1/2″ |
| Hem | 1/2″ |
2. Sleeve pattern pieces (2)
For sleeves take 2 pieces of the following dimensions
length – sleeve length + 2 inch
Place all the paper patterns and then mark on the fabric around it with a chalk.
Remember that the back and front bodices and sleeves are marked on fold so the fabric should be kept on fold too.
It is necessary to pin the pattern to the fabric as otherwise the whole thing will shift and the measurement will be off.
Keep the two bodice fabric pieces on fold.
Cut the pattern pieces; If you are adding sleeves follow the directions to make a simple plain sleeve pattern
Cut the back pattern. It is better to stay stitch all the edges of the pattern pieces to prevent stretching .
Cut out the sleeves.
When cutting sleeves, keep the 2 sleeve fabric pieces folded and aligned. Mark the back sleeve and front sleeve on the same piece. After marking, cut through the back armhole line. Then open it up and cut through the front armhole line . So now you have one side back armhole line and other side armhole line.
Cut the bias strip and the placket pieces and keep them aside. These are sewn last.
Cut out the yoke pieces.
You need to cut one outer piece and one lining piece for each side – so total 4 pieces.
Step 1
Sew the darts from the inside of the front bodice.
Do not forget to leave long tails of thread at the tip of the dart. This is for tying up to secure the stitches.( instead of back stitching )
Step 2
Sew the dart in the back pattern too
Step 3
Join the two yoke pieces (outer piece and the lining) right sides to the inside, together at the bottom edge.
Turn it rightside out .
Step 3
Join the yoke and front piece to left and right front bodice pieces .
Step 4
Finish the bottom edge of the back piece with a binding tape.
For this, turn the edge of the binding to the inside 1/4 inch and sew in place. Then sew the edge of the binding to the edge of the back piece (as in the picture below) .
Turn the binding to the back. Sew in place. Now the bottom edge of the back bodice is neatly finished.
Step 5
Join the shoulders of the back and front patterns. Sew the sides too
Do not forget to finish all the raw edges, for the blouse to look professionally sewn.
Step 5
Join the sleeves to the pattern – You can either sew it like in the diagram below (before the sides are sewn) Or after the sides are joined (which is preferred)
Checkout the post on Sleeve patterns to learn about drafting sleeve patterns in different styles and how to join sleeves to the bodice.
Second option – join the sleeves like a set sleeve.
For this, sew the edges of the sleeves first.
Now sew this to the finished armhole of your blouse.
Step 6 Add placket to the front opening.
The placket facing strip is sewn to the edge of the front opening and then folded by half and turned to the other side to conceal the back fabric edge
Right side placket is folded completely to the back.(ie when you look at the blouse the one on the left) This is where you will sew the small metal hooks. On the other side you need a projecting placket to sew the thread loops for the blouse hooks. Left side one is left for sewing the hook loops.
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Placket on one side.
Keep the placket piece on the central front edge at the back of the bodice. This placket is used to attach the eyes for the hooks for the blouse. Sew the edges together.
Make an accordion fold with the placket piece. Pin in place.
Sew straight along the bottom edge.
Now turn the placket to the front side. The stitching you made at the bottom edge will create a straight edge for your placket at the bottom edge. Top stitch the edge of the placket. This is where you will stitch the eyes of the blouse (fasteners)
The placket on the other side.
Keep the other placket piece on top of the right side of the other front bodice. Sew the edges together.
Fold the bottom edge of the placket to the inside.
Fold the other edge of the placket piece to the inside. Finger Press.
Turn the placket to the back of the blouse and sew in place.
You have two choices to make the hook loops.One is a thread loop and the other is a clever method of sewing the placket which leaves space for the hook eye.Check out the 5 + ways to sew hook on to your clothes
Step 8
Make a bias tape binding for the neck. First cut out the bias tape. If you donot know how to make bias tape checkout the tutorial. Checkout the bias binding tutorial as well if you donot know how to.
Fold the bias strip by half. Fold the edges of the binding strip inside. Stitch the edges.
Stitch the binding and the neckline right sides together together, starting from one side of front bodice .
Your beautiful blouse is ready.
If you feel like doing some embellishment on your blouse, do some mirror embroidery or kutch embroidery or phulkari embroidery. You can also freehand draw some flowers and fill it up with long and short stitches
( If you have any questions please ask in comments )
You may wish to make a halter blouse for your sari like this one here. It is simple tie back pattern and can be made very easily.You may want to shorten the length a little
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